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Chasing the Northern Lights

An Unexpected Icelandic Adventure

By TheBikepack

October 13^th, 2023

Chasing the Northern Lights

Join us on day 5 of our epic Icelandic adventure that unfolds across some of the world's most breathtaking landscapes. We are The Bikepack, a dynamic duo from Gothenburg with an insatiable passion for cycling. We're on a mission to show the world that biking isn't just a means of transportation; it's an incredible way to explore, stay fit, and have the time of your life.

Our current odyssey, the Iceland Divide, has taken us through a grueling yet exhilarating ten-day self-supported biking adventure. Picture this: wilderness, majestic glaciers, and fierce storms as our constant companions. We've hauled all our gear and provisions, covering a staggering 600 km with a 7,000-meter ascent.

Yesterday we battled the elements. The day started as we awoke in the cozy Kistufell cabin after surviving a frigid mountain climb, finding comfort in warmth and food, then embarked on a challenging cycling adventure through Iceland's unforgiving terrain, braving the snow, fog, and rugged landscapes, fueling our spirits with resilience and protein-bar as we ventured onward toward the promise of a warm bed at Nyidalur FI Mountain Hut.

Our journey is far from over, and we invite you to share in our adventure. Come along with us and allow our experiences to ignite your own biking aspirations. It's time to embark on your own two-wheeled adventure and discover the incredible world that awaits. 🚴♂️🌍

Sunshine Shines on Aurora’s Miss in Iceland

Awaking from a restful night's sleep, we felt rejuvenated and full of anticipation, only to be crestfallen when we learned that the elusive Northern Lights had graced the night sky without our witness. Our disappointment was intensified by the warden's revelation that early-season Northern Lights were a rare spectacle, dimming our prospects for a sighting in the nights ahead. However, as we stepped outside, greeted by a clear blue sky and the warm embrace of the sun, our spirits were instantly feeling more exited, and the shorter route ahead seemed promising.

Enjoying the morning sunlight, we seized the chance to reorganize our bikes, creating a sense of liberation as our panniers were lightened due to our dwindling food supplies. After a satisfying round of packing Tetris, we shed both our handlebar bags, transforming our bikes into more agile and balanced companions for the journey. Before setting out, we took a moment to capture a photograph together, our kind warden graciously playing the role of our photographer. She informed us that we were the only Swedes to have ventured to the hut thus far that year. Expressing our gratitude for her hospitality, we pedaled away into the day.

It was a marvelous twist of fate to experience such beautiful weather on an island where we had been led to expect nothing but relentless rain and snow.

The “onion approach”

Amazed by the wonderful weather, we found ourselves wrestling with the unanticipated Icelandic heat, navigating the delicate balance between shedding layers to keep off sweat just enough to ward off the chill – an art in itself. Dressing appropriately for the occasion is more crucial than you might imagine when your on the bike all day every day, and our tried-and-true method is what we fondly refer to as the "onion approach."

This technique involves layering, akin to peeling back the layers of an onion, allowing us to adapt to varying terrains and unpredictable weather.

The Bikepack's appeal guide 101: Our clothing arsenal looks something like this: First, we have the trusty base layer, snug or insulated, depending on the climate. Next comes the versatile middle layer, a jersey, long- or short-sleeved, tailored to the day's weather whims. Finally, there's the outermost shield – the wind vest or jacket, selected based on its thickness and, of course, the weather's temperament. The tricky part is getting this all just right when you plan for a 10 day adventure with literally all weather condition and minimal packing possibility. Beyond these fundamental layers, we often consider adding headgear, whether a cap, beanie, or headband, for additional warmth. And don't forget the gloves – their thickness is dictated by the chill in the air. For the feet, shoe and rain protection offers respite from the perils of getting wet. Dressing correctly involves considering an array of factors, and our trusty layering method has proven invaluable in tackling these challenges – it's just how we like to do things!

Lunch Spot Lottery

Pedaling onward beneath the embrace of the sun-kissed sky, we found ourselves immersed in the breathtaking landscape that stretched out before us. Our quest for the perfect lunch spot culminated by a winding glacier river. As we soaked in sun, we enjoyed our lunch, exchanging cheerful waves with the occasional 4x4 monster vehicle passing on the F26 road.

With only 55 kilometers on the day's itinerary, we had initially planned for a leisurely ride, aiming to enjoy the journey rather than rush through it. However, as is often the case, things don't always unfold as expected. This day would prove to be one of our most challenging yet!

After five hours in the saddle, we finally reached our day's destination: a cute hut by the side of a big ass river. 4x4's were parked outside, and the door stood ajar. Despite today's journey not being the lengthiest or most challenging , our bodies rejoiced in the thought of rest and food.

We entered the cabin, but our arrival seemed to catch four surprised Icelandic men mid-meal. Something felt off, as we asked to make sure we found the right place. It was the right place, but not quite. This wasn't a public hut; instead, it belonged to a fishing club.

Icelandic Roads: Where ‘Flat’ Means Anything But!

Our hearts fell through the floor as we heart these word, but a remedy soon arrived in an unexpected form - beer! Our spirits lifted with the promise that smooth, inviting asphalt was just a scant 30 easy kilometers away. As if that weren't enough, the ice landing fishing crew told us about a hotell with a sauna and bar.

This news was music to our ears, especially after a day spent traversing never ending gravel roads. We couldn't resist cracking open one of the beers generously given to us by the friendly fishermen. Partly for the energy it provided, but if we're honest, we were also eager to shed a little weight from our load!

Five days on Icelandic roads hadn't fully schooled us yet; we hadn't learned that an "Icelandic flat" is as unique as a snowflake. It's a far cry from what us tourists might label as "flat"!

Things kicked off with a dose of positivity - a satisfying downhill glide. With newfound vigor courtesy of our brew, we embarked on a kilometer-ticking spree. But then, just when we thought we'd mastered the day's route, our road took an unexpected twist. These weren't your run-of-the-mill hills; they were ten-to-twenty-minute climbs that left us gasping.

Our motivating tunes played by DJ mountain man provided a backdrop, but the day was stretching out longer than we'd anticipated. What was meant to be an easy, breezy ride under the day's glorious sun had become a whimsical tale of unexpected challenges. We'd set out to enjoy the sunlight and catch some extra rest for the adventure's second leg. Little did we know, Iceland had a different plan in store for us!

Twilight Tales: The Never-Ending Quest for an Icelandic Hotel

As the sun dipped below the horizon, our water bottles started to run dry, and we found ourselves on a seemingly endless rollercoaster of hills. The promise of a hotel and smooth asphalt beckoned like a mirage in the desert - a vision we'd been chasing since our Icelandic friends' well-intentioned but misleading assurance.

We cheered ourselves on, convincing each other that just beyond the next crest, the long-anticipated hotel would appear, and the asphalt would grace us with a smoother ride. Yet, the promise remained elusive. No hotel, no asphalt, just endless gravel.

With twilight settling in and our dreams of a comfortable bed slipping away, we decided to make the best of it. We stumbled upon a lake with a volcanic beach. Forget the soft white sands of Southern Europe; here, black volcanic sands, mixed with larger volcanic stones, welcomed us. And to our big surprise, we were not alone. Our new neighbours, two Icelandic couples on a weekend trip with their 4x4's trying their luck with fishing, greeted us.

Curiosity got the better of us, and we asked if this serene spot was a frequent place. Their answer was nothing short of comical – for seven to eight years, they'd returned to this exact spot for weekends of fishing, yet not a single fish had taken the bait. Astonished, we questioned the existence of fish in the lake, and the reply? Fish aplenty! It was a puzzling enigma, one that had us all sharing laughter on the shores of this remarkable Icelandic lake.

A Dance in the Sky

Gathered around the campfire as the chill of the evening began to set in, we marveled at the incredible hospitality of the Icelandic hobby fishermen. They grilled a lamb leg with potatoes in a dug hole in the ground, a classic Icelandic outdoor dish, inviting us to share in their feast.

Our friend, Johan, had spent most of the day pedaling through picturesque landscapes and striking up conversations about the many flavors of bread and snacks. We casually mentioned this to our newfound Icelandic friends, and in the blink of an eye, a hearty sandwich materialized in Johan's hand. Such selflessness, generosity, and warmth were qualities we'd come to associate with the Icelandic people.

Seated around the bonfire, savoring the freshly cooked lamb and potatoes amidst an array of sauces, it felt like the heavens themselves were performing a dance in the night sky, painted in stunning shades of green. The Northern Lights! Pure joyfulness washed over us, almost bringing tears to our eyes. The countless hours of hard work and determination that had brought us here, surrounded by incredible company under a sky ablaze with radiant auroras, was a magical experience beyond words.

For much of our lives, we'd dreamt of witnessing the Northern Lights, and here we were, receiving this extraordinary gift during one of our greatest adventures. It was nothing short of mind-blowing.

With another eventful day etched into our Icelandic journey, we finally retreated to our trusty tent and the warmth of our snug sleeping bags. Tomorrow promised a mix of asphalt and exhilarating descents, followed by the challenge of gravel roads and ascents, in the classic Icelandic fashion.